ok, we are back in Marrakech after a very early moring bus ride back to the city.

the morning stqrted with a shot of adrenaline- at 5 something AM wendy realized that our passports were locked in the riad (hotel) safe, despite the fact thqt we had checked out the night before given how early we had to leave. long story short I found the proprietor of the house and woke him up? and we got them back and to the bus on time.

the bus ride gave me time to (1) enjoy the fablous sunrise-- i think only africa produces these sunrises where the sun looks like an orange fire ball of massive proportions; and (2) marvel at how the berbers were able to live off this land. it is all rock. all of it. think moonscape. yet they seem to have farms and goats and the occasional green things growing. it does make it more understandable how the ancient world never conquored this place--you would have to be tough as nails and supremely adapted to make it.

DB